I have a 2002 Dale Earnhardt Monte Carlo that will not start and only the check engine light comes on. I had it read out with a OBD II scanners and it’s related to the VATS system not allowing the car to start. If I temporarily remove the battery ground and wait a few seconds then connect it will start a couple of times then repeat the same problem engine check light only no battery messages, abs lights, and etc. I think the problem is the ignition switch locking out the car so it won’t start. So I’m in the process of trying to get at the ignition switch to take it out where it’s mounted and temporarily want to try to by pass it to see if the car will start everytime to isolate the ignition switch. I have taken the dash and lower panels out, but the iginition switch is still enclosed in the plastic framework and it looks like you would have to remove all that and the gauge cluster. So is there an easier way of getting the ignition switch out without taking the entire panel and gauges cluster out.
If I remove the negative battery terminal for a few seconds the car will start with the dash indicators and lights working correctly a couple of times then the same problem check engine light only. OBD II scanners shows it VATS problem which is related to the ignition switch. Had a similar problem on my 87 VET VATS locked out the ignition same way wouldn’t start used a bypass module corrected the problem starts every time. If I remove the negative battery terminal for a few seconds and reconnect it to the battery the car will start with the dash indicators and lights working correctly a couple of times then the same problem check engine light only. OBD II reader shows it VATS problem which is related to the ignition switch. Had a similar problem on my 87 VET VATS locked out the ignition same way wouldn’t start used a bypass module corrected the problem starts every time.
I think right now that’s it’s definitely the ignition switch just to get at it I have all the panels off and theres an aluminum panel below the steering wheel so it looks like I might have to remove that to get at the ignition switch. I thought it was going to be an easy job to get at it and replace it. I don’t want to take it to a dealer and pay $500 or $600 dollars I have had other problems that I have fixed myself on the car ABS Brakes, and etc.
Bought a new OBD II Code Reader to check all the DTC codes Innova EPI3140 found a solid DTC P1626 code when it will not start indicating Theft Deterrent System Fuel Enable Circuit has a problem. May be related to the a wiring problem talking via email with a chevy dealer ask the tech or the body control module is my guess. Also after 2 or 3 days it seems like the battery is worn down some what it would try to start you could hear the starter click then sometimes nothing. Also the lights on the instrument panel cycle on and off as long as you leave the key set to the ignition mode and the service check engine light stays on really weird. So any one else out there had the same or similar problem not that I narrowed it down to something like the body control module.
The Security Light/Radio Locked/No Start are common indicators of a problem with the passlock system. You can try doing a security relearn to solve the problem. Turn the key to the ON position and leave it there for 11 minutes. Now turn the key to the OFF position for 10 seconds. Repeat this pattern 2 more times for a total of 3 cycles (ON 11m/OFF 10s/ON 11m/OFF 10s/ON 11m/OFF 10s). The vehicle should now start and both the Security and Locked lights should be off. If the problem continues you may need to replace the ignition switch or (worst scenario) the Body Control Module (BCM).
If a fuse blows instantly it indicates a direct short in the circuit. If it blows a few moments after activating it is usually caused by an excessive amperage draw on the circuit that exceeds the limit of the fuse. The only way to know for sure what the cause is would be to have the circuits tested.