September 15, 2015 Giovanni Ghironzi


Posted in Forum Post

Surfing is one activity that can be seen in many different ways: a hippy pastime, a fun hobby, a sport, or even a way of life, but surfing can be so much more than that. Surfing can be that much needed escape from troubles; a quiet place where the worries of life are left on shore, making the water a place where one can live life one wave at a time. Worrying about the future is something that we all do, but is unhealthy to say the least. We worry about making it to work on time, we worry about money, deadlines, future plans, and a plethora of other things. This worrying about life is tiring and can be overwhelming at times, but how can we spend less energy worrying? One option is to live one wave at a time. Don’t worry about the future, because worrying doesn’t help at all. Even though many of us have our schedules set out months in advance, it is still possible and healthy to adopt the surfing mentality of living day-to-day. Living this way does not guarantee a life free from worry, each day will bring a new set of challenges and hardships that will cause us to worry, but it doesn’t do any good to worry about things that we cannot change.

Surfing is not the only way to escape from worries, but it is very effective for a couple reasons. Waves come in different shapes and sizes, and some are better than others, but waves are incredibly powerful. Waves are like walls that are falling over. Waves are made of water. Water is heavy. It is not totally uncommon for a waves to break boards and/or leashes. Many people avoid surfing for fear of sharks, but even without sharks, surfing is not a safe activity because the waves are powerful and uncontrollable. The surfer has no input on how big a wave is, how it breaks, or where it goes. Surfers simply go to where the waves are and play around with them. On land, mankind has shown its dominance by building giant buildings and cities, constructing weapons of mass destruction, and we know that many animal and plant species have gone extinct largely due to human activities. In the water, mankind has taken a different role of observation and enjoyment.  Scuba divers defy how deep nature says a human should dive through specialized equipment. Surfers see powerful walls of water crashing down and decide to go and play with them.  If humans are indeed supposed to subdue the Earth, surfing is one expression of mankind conquering the ocean.

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